The Surrealistic Garden of Edward James

Firstly, this post and any others to follow represent a radical departure from any and all blogs written by me over the previous 15 years. In the past, I eschewed any potential writings which did not have their genesis in some form of community service undertaken by Lori and me. That is, with the exception of Yak and Yeti Take On Nepal. At the time my travel partner, friend, lawyer, and fellow wordsmith, Ron (Yeti) Levy forced me to write under threat of him writing one that would not end up being nearly as insightful or funny.

Looking down the barrel of the future, and drinking from whatever barrel I find along the way, in response to a multitude* of folks who have said - "Burnett, I really enjoy reading your posts, you should write more", I have managed to crawl out from my introvert shell and hope to inform, amuse, educate, and entertain those of you who have stuck by me all these years.

*at least one person

I don't know how long, how often, or what types of material will cause me to plunk my butt down in front of a keyboard; butt here goes the first one. I am taking the liberty of including you on this new Blog. If you prefer not to receive further product, please let me know in as kind and gentle way as is humanly possible. Do not, under any circumstance, use 'I like you as a friend' as a reason to leave me.

Thank you for your patience. If you've come this far, here's the good stuff:

Entrance to Las Pozas

Guadalupe

In the middle of nowhere, more precisely a small community named Xilitla (pronounced Hil Itla) situated in the state of San Luis Potosi in north west Mexico, is home to a series of constructs which reflect the creativity of a unique and special individual named Edward James. He was raised in early 20th century aristocracy. Preceded by four sisters, the scion of the family's genealogical background is open to some debate. His mother was a close friend of King Edward VII. How close? Lets say Mrs. Wallace Simpson wasn't his first rodeo. King Eddy was also the boy's godfather. That he was named Edward and bore a striking resemblance to the king only added to the scuttlebutt around Windsor Castle back in the day. Edward James' father, on paper at least, was one of those industrialists who has been portrayed ad nauseam in more movies, books, Netflix series, than one could shake a riding crop at. At a young age, showing a reclusiveness and a lack of desire to run the family business empire, he was shunted off to boarding school, which did little to bring out the rough, aggressive business oriented character that his father was hoping that he'd develop.

Part of the Surrealistic Garden

Rather, Edward sunk deeper into his reveries, losing himself in his own poetry befriending more the artists and less the rugby players at his school. Being the only male in the family, as was the custom on this planet up until fairly recently, his father was forced to assume that Edward would ultimately be the recipient and guardian of the family fortune. While his sexuality was never overtly declared (look how well that worked out for Alan Turing), James was likely bisexual with a propensity toward males. With his looks, charm, talent, and money, particularly the latter, James was welcomed into the newly emerging Surrealist movement in Europe. He was close friends with Salvador Dali, René Magritte, Joan Miro, Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, Leonora Carrington (more on her later) and the other emerging Dadaists. He was a major sponsor and patron, purchasing works of art and handing out cheques to tide the artists over during difficult periods.

Leaving Europe for America in 1940, he resided in New Mexico for a while before heading to Old Mexico. 

Snake Sculpture

Original Design

There, he was introduced to, and became infatuated with, an area in Xilitla known as Las Pozas, a series of fresh water pools fed by a cascading waterfall in which the locals used to swim. 

Water Falls

Already deeply impacted by his years with his surrealist friends, James decided that he would purchase the 80 acre site turning it into his canvas. Las Pozas would become a surrealistic expression the form and magnitude of which will never be equalled. He engaged local labour (around 150 Mexicans who had no idea what they were getting into) and managed to align himself with Plutarco Gastélum, a master carpenter, probably his lover, and set off on his journey down the type of rabbit hole that Alice would have given her eye teeth for. 

Mosaic Floor Tiling

Leaf Detail

James would sketch the appearances he desired, Plutarco (I can't help of the double exposure of Mickey's friend and the Greek philosopher mashing up in my mind whenever I think of his name) would then carve the wooden forms, pour concrete into them, and produce the whimsical, magnificent structures, realizing James' dreams. 

Original Edward James Sketch

Execution of Sketch into Concrete by Gastélum

One of the most prominent sculptures in the garden today is that of the hands of Plutarco, expressing the love and gratitude that James held for his foreman.

Sketch

Mold

Sculpture of Plutarco's hands in Las Pozas

The assembly took place in between 1949 and 1984. Originally the esoteric environment was to be a place for meditation, creativity and pure fun and enjoyment for Edward and his friends. The original colouration of the garden is very reflective of the psychedelic era. 

Today

1998

Fifteen thousand orchids, a total obsession, collected from the five corners of the globe were brought in and planted, only to be obliterated by a freak snowstorm in 1962. Reality declares that nature always wins. Las Pozas is no exception. James died in 1984, prior to completion of his dream. Following his death, the grounds were opened to the general public. The existence of the real fantasyland was known to a handful of individuals who had been friends of the eccentric or to those who accidentally stumbled across it while visiting the town of Xilitla. Social media changed all that.

Today, the colours are fading, moss and plants are burrowing into the concrete, landslides, acting like stone tidal waves have impacted several of the buildings, and the place, by all estimates will be inaccessible with a decade or two. James insisted that Las Pozas ultimately give way to the forces of erosion and time. His vision and dedication will, like all things, be transient. I am grateful to have had the opportunity to the see the surrealistic dowager in her fading glory.